12. Here we see the backslide with the "hump" removed.

13. Another view of the plate with the "hump" removed.

14. Now the plate sits nice and flat against the bottom of the boot. This fit is important to your backslides having a solid feel, so take your time and make sure you get it right.

15. Here we see our next fit problem: the plate doesn't sit up against the side of the boot. The very back edge of the plate is hitting the boot just ahead of the rear soul plate (where it says "shock absorber")

16. Here you can see that we've grinded the offending area of the boot down so the backslide plate can sit up against the side of the boot.

17. Top view of the trimmed area.

18. Now the plate sits nice and flush, almost a perfect fit! This is why the Razors backslides work so well on Salomons, they're almost meant to go on. Now that we have the plate and the boot fitting together well, we need to attach them. This is pretty simple, you just need the right screws and a screwdriver. A power screwdriver or drill with a screwdriver bit is useful here too.

19. Here you can see a ½"-long #8-thread pan-head sheet-metal screw, the easiest way to mount the backslides.

20. You need a screw in the front of the plate too, but unfortunately, unlike the back, there isn't a hole conveniently molded into the front of the plate. So we need to make our own countersunk mounting hole in the front. Here you can see the mark where we're going to drill.

21. First, we drill the small hole. A vise is really useful here to hold the plate while you drill. For a #8 sheet-metal screw, use a 5/32" or 11/64" bit. Drill all the way through and remove any stringy bits.

22. Now this step is a bit trickier; we need to drill a bigger hole for the head of the screw to sit in, but we don't want to go all the way through the plate. Set your drill to its lowest speed and a low-to-medium torque setting. For the pan-head #8 screw we're using, a 5/16" bit works well. Set the bit in the hole you've already made and just barely tap the drill trigger. This should turn the bit a turn or two, just enough to give you a countersunk hole but not go all the way through the plate.

23. Here is a view of what the finished countersunk hole should look like.